This technical manual is open in public. (individual use only)
If any salon, hair salon or hair industry company wants to use this technique manual please send e-mail to tatsuyaikezawa@gmail.com
I’m welcome to have a class at your place or my salon regarding Japanese straightening perm and Digital Perm.
If there is any question or point to correct feel free to ask.
tatsuyaikezawa@gmail.com
What is the Lisio Japanese straightening
We use Milbon Liscio. http://www.milbon-usa.com/product/liscio-thermal-retexturizing/
LISCIO JAPANESE STRAIGHTENING
http://www.milbon-usa.com/product/liscio-thermal-retexturizing
Steps for Japanese straightening perm
- Consultation – Analyze your client’s hair
- Shampoo – You may use conditioner if needed
- Apply 1st solution
- Shampoo
- Dry / Ironing (Use a flat iron)
- Apply 2nd solution
- Rinse
- Finish
1.Consultation
Consultation is most important in Japanese straightening perm services.
Hair history and hair condition.
Analyze your clients’ hair – Dry? Damaged? How many times was it dyed? etc…
Sometimes customers forget about their color and perm history. Touch their hair to double-check.
Make sure the customer has no concerns before you start the service.
Be ready to answer all your customers’ questions.
Frequently asked questions from customers are listed in the Q＆A section of our website.
Share photos with your customers so that you don’t misunderstand the hairstyle they want.
Clients needs: pin-straight? remove frizz? natural straight? change the hairstyle? wants to make bangs?
What are your customers’ needs? Ask for specifics.
The following is what you need to tell your customers before you start your services.
Let them know in advance the disadvantages of taking this service.
- If customers have dyed their hair, there is a possibility of color fading. If they have dyed their hair ash, there is a possibility that it will turn orange or yellow.
- A straight perm flattens the movement of the hair. If a client’s hair is fine, it is recommended to use Keratin treatment or Oxo smoothing treatment.
- Hair that has been colored is more prone to dryness.
- Short hair does not have the same long-lasting effect as long hair. This is because the
weight is lighter and it spreads more easily. - For maximum effectiveness, it is recommended to continue receiving the services every 6 to 10 months.
Rinse the client’s hair.
If a client doesn’t have anything on his/her hair or if his/her hair is oily, you don’t need to use
shampoo.
Before applying 1st solution, wet the hair.
When the hair is wet, 1st solution can be applied evenly, quickly, and easily.
Apply 1st solution
Before applying the first solution…
If clients want to make new bangs or change the hair part.
It is difficult to create bangs or change the parting of the hair after a straight perm, so be
sure to do that before applying the chemical.
If clients want to change their hairstyle or want to cut length.
If the client wants to shorten the hair length or change the hairstyle, do the haircut first as it
will shorten the treatment time.
Brush the hair well before apply 1st solution to shorten application time.
If Clients’ hair is easy to get tangle you should well comb through before you start to apply the first solution.
Apply the 1st Solution quickly (10min or less) all over the hair to soften it evenly.
Usually, start from the back of the head where the hair is harder.
Minimize the use of protective creams and pre-treatments, as they can easily tangle the hair.
If the application time is too long (15min or longer), it is recommended to start with the
weaker 1st solution.
For hair that has already been straightening permed, apply only to the new growth.
Use Protection 50 to protect fuzzy/baby hair.
Also, these baby hairs usually need less time to soften.
How long should I wait to rinse after applying the first solution?
For each different hair type.
Single permanent color.
1 or 2 levels lighter or gray cover.
Caucasian hair: 1st solution normal + mild start. Normal finish. 5 to 10 min and check.
Asian hair: 1st solution normal + mild start. normal finish 5 to 10 min.
After retouch color treatment, straight perm treatment can be performed on the same day.
By applying color first, the overall condition of the hair is evened out, making it easier to apply the 1st solution.
Straightening perms lighten the hair color by 0.5-1 level, so make it darker than the desired color.
Single permanent color.
lighter than 3 levels lighter than natural color.
Apply as soon as possible, because the effect of the 1st solution is faster on colored hair. If it cannot be applied within 10 minutes, use the protective cream.
Caucasian hair: 1st solution mild start. Rinse after 5 min
Asian hair: 1st solution mild start. Rinse after 5 – 10 min.
Always check the condition of the hair after applying the 1st solution. Brush the hair well and once the hair is straight, wash it out.
Bleached hair
Apply as soon as possible, because the effect of the 1st solution is faster on bleached hair. If it cannot be applied within 10 minutes, use the protective cream.
Explain to customers that their hair may dry out.
Straightening perm is not recommended on bleached hair. If the client still wishes to have the service, Keratin or other treatments should be used in combination.
Semi-permanent color
Semi-permanent color is milder than permanent color, so it is considered almost the same as virgin hair.
Caucasian hair: 1st solution Normal 10 to 15 min.
Asian hair: 1st solution normal 10 to 15 min.
Check the condition of the hair every 2 min after applying the 1st solution. Brush the hair well and once the hair is straight, wash it out.
Manicure color
Considered the almost same as virgin hair
Caucasian hair: 1st solution Strong 10 to 15 min.
Asian hair: 1st solution normal 10 to 15 min.
Make sure to tell the client that the 1st solution causes the hair manicure to fade before the service.
Highlighted hair. Highlights up to 3 levels lighter than the original hair color
Apply in the same way as a single color.
Apply a protective cream around the face and on damaged areas.
Highlights 3 levels lighter than the original hair color
Process in the same way as bleached hair
Straightening perm is not recommended on highlighted hair. If the client still wishes to have the service, Keratin or other treatments should be used in combination.
Why is it difficult to apply straight perm to hair with highlights?
Hair with highlights is a mixture of hair textures in various states.
If a client has a mixture of different hair types, the 1st solution will affect them differently, so it may work too well on some hair and not on others.
A protective cream should be applied to the highlighted colored hair to control the speed at which the effect appears.
For bleached highlight hair … Protection cream 90
highlights(3 levels and lighter than the original hair color)…Protection cream 70
highlights (up to 3 levels lighter than the original hair color)…Protection cream 50
It is impossible to protect all highlights, but be sure to do so, especially around the face and areas that have a lot of highlights.
About protection cream.
There are 90,70, 50(Knoture 0)
Protection 90 has the effect of deducing 90% of the 1st solution..
Why is it difficult to apply straight perm to hair with highlights?
Hair with highlights is a mixture of hair textures in various states.
If a client has a mixture of different hair types, the 1st solution will affect them differently, so it may work too well on some hair and not on others.
Shampoo
Rinse well, especially around the nape of the neck, around the ears, and face.
Rinse well until the water gets clear.
Use a conditioner and dry well with a towel.
Dry and Ironing
Dry the hair completely before using a flat iron.
Using a heat protection before using a flat iron.
Use the flat iron along the direction in which clients hair naturally grows.
Iron the hair, including the part that was previously straight permed.
Iron all the needed parts at around 380 degrees, about 0.5 inches at a time.
Ironing time is 1-1.5 hours.
Use a heat protection on the ends of the hair and around the face.
Fine hair is weak, so if the temperature of the iron is too high, it can cause dryness.
Ironing against the direction of hair growth will cause the roots to bend, making the hair difficult to manage.
Apply 2nd solution
Apply 2nd solution make sure all the hair where you apply 1st solution. After 5 min later rinses off.
Rinse
No shampoo just well rinse and deep conditioner or in-salon treatment.
Finish
Blow-dry and hair cut.
The rule after Japanese straightening perm
Do not use shampoo or tie the hair tightly for 48 hours after the service.